Rwanda, once synonymous with tragedy, has quietly transformed into one of Africa’s most compelling travel destinations. With its vibrant communities, lush landscapes, and resilient spirit, the country offers a fresh perspective for those willing to explore both its history and its remarkable resurgence.
From the tranquil shores of Lake Kivu to the wildlife-rich expanses of Akagera National Park, Rwanda invites visitors to discover the beauty that has emerged from its painful past.
Odette Nyiramilimo, a retired gynecologist and former parliamentarian, embodies the personal and national healing that defines Rwanda today. Her Rushel Kivu Resort, perched on the northwestern shores of Lake Kivu, is more than a guesthouse. It is a place of redemption. “I returned here, opened this place, to show my parents that I’d come home,” Odette explains.
Her parents were killed during the 1994 genocide, and she chose this site to rebuild, close to her childhood village. While the term “resort” might suggest a sprawling luxury destination, Rushel Kivu is an intimate retreat, offering kayaks and volleyball courts, yet it feels more like a personal sanctuary, an emblem of Rwanda’s quiet recovery.
I arrived at Rushel Kivu after a long journey, which, like so many others, brought back memories of a very different Rwanda. In 1994, I had arrived in the country as part of a small team reporting on the genocide. My arrival that year was through the cargo hold of a Hercules C-130 aircraft, laden with aid for survivors.
Returning in 2024, the contrast could not have been starker. Where once there was fear and uncertainty, there is now an overwhelming sense of optimism and growth. This time, I was seated comfortably in a passenger plane, my destination clear: Rwanda, a country reborn.
During my stay, I spoke with a grandmother visiting from Kigali, surrounded by her grandchildren. The children, teenagers at the cusp of adolescence, wore hoodies and scrolled through their phones, blissfully unaware of the past that had shaped their family.
Yet the lush, peaceful surroundings seemed to have a profound effect on their grandmother, who spoke with quiet strength about her journey of healing. Nature, I thought, in all its beauty, especially the birds that filled the air and the sense of serenity around Lake Kivu had become an essential part of her redemption.
But it was not just the past that drew me back to Rwanda, it was the future. Rwanda’s transformation, from the site of one of the most horrific genocides in history to a beacon of stability and hope, is perhaps one of the greatest stories of recovery in the world. I had been following Rwanda’s progress since that tragic time, writing about the country’s revival for various international outlets. This trip, however, was personal. I was here to design a private-guided safari itinerary, to see for myself how much the country had changed since my last visit in 2007.
Upon my arrival in Kigali, Providence Ngabire, a young entrepreneur running her own boutique tour operation, greeted me at the airport. Aware of my journalistic background and my longstanding interest in Rwanda, she suggested we collaborate. Together, we would explore Rwanda’s burgeoning tourism sector, which has been instrumental in the country’s post-genocide recovery. From the capital, Kigali, we set off on a journey to some of the most iconic national parks, starting with Akagera.
Akagera National Park: Resilience in the Savanna
Of all Rwanda’s parks, Akagera was the one I knew the least about. Located in the country’s eastern corner, along the border with Tanzania, it had been somewhat overshadowed by the more famous Volcanoes and Nyungwe National Parks. But Akagera’s resurgence, largely due to the efforts of African Parks, a South African-based conservation NGO, had made it a must-see destination.
African Parks’ work in Akagera is a prime example of what can be achieved with committed conservation efforts. The park, characterized by savanna woodlands, lakes, and rolling hills, had faced decades of poaching and neglect. However, under African Parks’ stewardship, the park has thrived, bringing back populations of elephants, rhinos, and other wildlife once thought lost. A visit here is not just a safari; it’s a testament to resilience.
Driving through Akagera’s landscapes, from the southern to the northern reaches, was an intimate experience. Unlike the vast, sprawling parks found in other parts of Africa, Akagera’s compact size allowed us to take in its varied terrain in a single morning. It’s a park that demands time, though, not just for the game viewing, but for its unhurried beauty.
One of the highlights of Akagera is a morning boat cruise on Lake Ihema. Surrounded by papyrus islands and filled with birdlife, from fish eagles to herons and bee-eaters, the lake offers a tranquil yet captivating view of the park. And from Akagera Game Lodge, perched high above the park, the sunsets are nothing short of spectacular.
A Country Transformed
Rwanda is not only about national parks and wildlife; it’s also about the people resilient, forward-thinking, and welcoming. My time in the country, from the vibrant streets of Kigali to the serene shores of Lake Kivu, revealed a nation eager to move forward while never forgetting the lessons of the past. There is a quiet strength in Rwanda, a sense of pride in its recovery that permeates every conversation, every encounter.
Whether it’s the coffee culture (which I’d first noticed on my 2007 visit, when I had enjoyed a cappuccino that rivaled any I’d had in Cape Town) or the luxurious accommodations now available in Kigali, it’s clear that Rwanda has raised the bar. After checking into the Residence by Heaven, a chic and modern hotel in the heart of Kigali, it was evident that the country had firmly entered the global tourism arena.
From Rwanda’s rich cultural heritage to its thriving conservation efforts, the country is a model of recovery and hope. As I toured Volcanoes National Park, home to the endangered mountain gorillas, and explored Nyungwe’s pristine forests, I found myself not just a visitor, but a witness to a nation’s rebirth.